Climbing Hills & Sending Old Friends Off To New Dimensions...

Before I share my latest adventures, I'd like to celebrate the life of a friend who lived, played, and finally discharged his body in Seattle, WA. Moises (pronounced Moses) was an incredibly daring person who seemed to allow himself the best that life had to offer. He had been battling stomach cancer for some time. It was in remission when I last saw him in June '07. Everything serves a purpose and I believe Moses had an opportunity to spread even more love, encourage even more people to live fully, and say goodbye without remorse knowing he had touched lives. That's a fine parting gift!

Here's to you, my friend!!! No more pain.

Friends ask me about Paris and how I like living here. Truth be told, the city is fantastic! It's beautiful, full of energy, and glowing with thousands of lights. However, it's a bit too far from the ocean. One thing about being in cities is the stars don't shine so brightly. Also, my creative senses are dulled by all the people, constant noise, and filth. There it is... Paris is like all other major cities and after a time, I need the roar of the ocean to remind me of my place in the universe. When I was in NYC, I spent a day on Coney Island, dipped my toes in the sand, and dodged a rainstorm. In Paris, I headed for the beaches of Normandy. Yeah, same region in which Joan D'Arc burned at the stake. Oooo... hope there's no significance there. Also the place where famous Impressionist Claude Monet found inspiration to create masterpieces. Much better... heading for inspiration, not losing my noggin.

Our mark for the journey to Etretat.

The tree marks the way to the famous French cliffs in Etretat.

My friend, François, treated me to a wild weekend of hiking on the Alabaster Coast or Upper Normandy, the region of France famous for natural beauty and permanent remembrances of WWII. The pathways and bunkers built by the Germans are still there. Don't forget the famous booze, Calvados (apple brandy) and Benedictine Liquor, come from there too. François and I spent 3 days hiking the famous trails and valeuses (huge cliff-side hills). You wouldn't believe how high these trails took us! I still can't believe he got me out there wandering through fields, following some strange marks to keep us on track. I was actually pretty good at finding the signs and the sea goat in me keep me climbing steadily toward the final destination, Etretat. The beauty all around us and the dangers of the cliffs were well worth the trek when we were rewarded with the most amazing natural sights.

One of the toughest valeuses and we're not even halfway there!!!

Getting closer...not really!

Unfortunately, the light wasn't cooperating the day we made our longest hike, 24km. When we got close enough to Aval's Door and its arc compared to an elephant dipping its trunk into the sea, we were still some distance from the town of Etretat. Guess panoramic photography would have served better here, but you get the point. All of the rock is flint and F. tried to impress me by rubbing a couple of stones together to make fire. Thank heavens we didn't need one. Poor François.

Aval's Door

More of the elephant...



Mr Cool! Heavy breathing much? Look at that incline!

The fourth and last valeuse almost killed us. The steepness of the climb is barely detectable in the photo because the depth draws your eye to the path we descended first. Oh well... just happy to be at the top. I'll master the camera thing another time. François was trying to act cool at the top, but it was a dead give away that he had suffered a bit too when he didn't immediately light up a cig. After a couple more kilometers it was clear we were nearing the main attractions. Hordes of people appeared on what had been a fairly serene path. In fact, up til now we had only encountered 6 others walking and a couple of mountain bikers who took an alternate route at our last and toughest valeuse. François commented that we were near the parking lot. Sure enough, it was true. All these people had not hiked to Etretat as we had that day and we were feeling pretty smug, not to mention hungry and thirsty. We had our baguette sandwiches, prepared by the Matron of our cute little hotel in Fécamp- our starting point-and water for the trip as well, but it was time for a well deserved beer or two. Down, down, down. We descended into the town amidst the throng of tourists. For some reason it was a busy weekend.

Etretat on a Sunday afternoon.

My hiker look... YIKES, no wonder there were stares!

We didn't dig all the people, so we finished our beers in the pub and headed down the rocky beach where few would tread to have our lunch. I was starving!!! Even though, the sun was shining, it was still a bit nippy especially after walking. I was in awe of the power of nature as I gazed on the rocks; some large others smaller ever giving way to the power of the ocean to transform all things. My spirit had been longing for this moment and I gave myself again to the sea. Do you see me in the water?

The rocks and my spirit in the water...

The weekend had been a treat to get me to the sea again, but it was also a trip for François and I to say farewell to our friend Simone who had just left her body the week prior. She had lived in that frame for 96 years! An amazing feat! When first I met her at Christmas she was still singing bawdy songs and sipping whiskey. I could tell from the lines on her face that she had enjoyed her life. Fécamp was a place Simone had adored. François bought white roses, a card we both signed, and we climbed to the peak of the city to send Simone on her new adventure. I was deeply moved by the gesture and by the overwhelming emotion of the moment. Although I gave him some distance as he hurled the roses into the sea below, I could tell François was silently weeping at the edge of the cliff for a woman who truly appreciated his presence.

François saying goodbye at the cliff's edge.

The wondrous Simone...still watching over us.

It was a minus tide dusk and the most glorious sunset I had seen in awhile. It was the evening of roses and a sunset to remember. One that pointed us to our destination the next day. We looked out over the rocks and water, thinking about the trek we would attempt tomorrow. I let F. know I might be a bit slow on the hills, but I would make it. He wasn't so certain after my struggle on the short climb earlier that day to celebrate Simone, but I felt confident. I knew I would give it my best. We finished the evening in Simone's favorite restaurant: a cute little hide-a-way, family owned bistro with an open hearth all ablaze to cook the meats and fish. It was warm, cozy, and filled with memories of Simone.

The evening of roses, a sunset to remember...

Peace

New Year's Bliss, Birthdays, and Blessings...

It's hard to believe 2008 has arrived already and my gypsy year is supposed to be nearing its end. Now I'm hooked. I got the travel bug, so this adventure of mine is getting an extension. Plus some opportunities are unfolding which I must investigate. Not to worry. I will let you know what sticks.

MB, Ivan, Betsy, & Me outside the Piano Bar where I sometimes sing

Betsy & MB were in Paris to celebrate New Year's Eve. We met at Relais de la Huchette Piano Bar and immediately connected. Ivan, my pal, was bar tending there American-style (he picked up his skills and impeccable English in Miami). He has already moved on if you want to try his wares in Paris. Now he's at a jazz club called Caveau des Oubliettes. I sit in with really cool bands there and even ran into former Seattle jazz crooner Fred Tuxx there. Remember I was looking for Fred? I finally found him. Just like that!

We had all planned to meet up on the Eve, but it was a strange night. Luckily we saw each other again before the ladies departed for the States with all their French souvenirs. It was a blast to share a few moments with fellow Americans during the holidays. Also January marks the beginning of my month-long birthday folly. Fun!!!

The Atomium in Brussels represents an iron crystal atom magnified 165 billion times.

I spent my birthday in Brussels. Yummy!!! Belgian chocolates and all kinds of treats awaited me there. Usually I sing on my special day, but '08 was already different. Shakin' things up a bit at the start never hurt anyone. It was my first trip to Belgium and I loved the city! My schedule was packed so I didn't get to see as much as I wanted. Next time...

Grand Place in Brussels.

Sooo... the future is set for more adventures and I'm really excited. Hope your New Year is off to a great beginning too. I'll keep you posted on my next moves.

Happy New Year, Peace, Joy, & A Ton of Love...

Leather & Lace (Ode To My Shoes)...

When I first slipped inside you
I knew it was the right thing to do
Other ones tried to catch my eye
But I knew it would be a lie
To think they could walk the world

Six months have now gone
And we're still going strong
People smile when they see us
Leather and lace
We can go any place
What would this Tomboy Diva do
Without you, silver converse shoes
©Katt Tait 2007

Christmas In Paris...

I celebrated Christmas with my friend's family in Paris. Typical of many sybilings, they live in the same city and rarely spend time together. So it was a real treat for me to finally be in the same room with them. It gave me a new understanding about my friend, François with whom I live in this city. We had a lovely meal along with a few other friends, including an incredible 96 year old woman, Simone, whose very presence was a reminder of the importance of living well. Then we destroyed the house with one of those cracker things that has a wick which when lit, blows the cracker's lid and confetti and small toys escape.

François in Christmas Drag giving Simone a twirl!

Paris itself is amazingly lit up all the time and during this season it is incredible. My camera isn't the best for night photos, so I'll only post a couple to give you a sense of it all.

A small street near my house.

The Champs D'Elysee has showy lights in the trees.

It's pretty wild how many people walk the boulevard to see the lights. I could hardly move. All I wanted was one photo. Oh, and there are no Christmas or after Christmas sales here. The holiday is much more commercial in the States. People are happy for a bit of time off from regular schedules. Many people travel to visit family and friends. It's festive in a different way.

I had a bit of holiday magic the evening I decided to wander around the Champs D'Elysee. I was looking for a club an acquaintance wanted me to check out near the L'Arc de Triomphe. It was extremely cold that evening and I had already been walking for 3 hours when I finally found it. The lights were out and a sign on the door said closed til 2 Jan. Not to be undone, I decided to go to a piano bar I had passed by several times in St Michel. I had been wanting to stop in, but I was always heading somewhere else when in the neighborhood. Le Relais de la Huchette (www.relaisdelahuchette.com) is in an area similar to Pike Place, except every establishment is open. Lots of bars, clubs, restaurants, & tourists on little cobblestoned alley ways. I asked the cute bartender, Ivan, if the pianist allowed people to sing with him. Ivan spent some time in Miami so his English is impeccable. He told me to sing if I wanted. Well... I thought it best to introduce myself to the pianist, Chris, first. All went over well. Chris has a different repertoire than I do, but we found something in common. The owner was present that night and asked if I wanted to sing New Year's Eve. Yes! Another venue in which to spread a little Katt joy!!! I left there on cloud nine headed to one of my favorite jazz jam clubs, Caverne des Oubliettes. When I first arrived in Paris, I thought I'd be able to locate a Seattle jazz singer, Frederic Tuxx, who had moved here 10 years earlier. Everywhere I asked people knew of him, but couldn't help me connect with him. I even wrote to mutual friends in the States with no luck. So I let it go knowing I would see him one day. I walked into the basement where the jammin' was happening and who's head was in front of me? Tuxx! I wasn't certain so I followed behind him til I could tap him on the shoulder and get a look at his face. Oh my God, the look on his face when he turned to see me staring up at him was priceless! He spends most of his time in the South of France which is why I couldn't find him. Ahhh... magic!!! He was surprised at how many people already knew me and how many of the hip places I had found. You know me: woman on a mission!

Cashiu will sing New Year's Eve too.

Willie, Pierre, & Me up to no good til the wee hours.

As the end of 2007 quickly approaches and my Gypsy Year is coming to a conclusion, I am so grateful I have had such wonderful adventures and met so many incredible people. I'm not certain what's next, but I am charged with optimism that 2008 will continue to fill my world with song, laughter, & love. I open my heart to it all!!

As always, I love you & hope your life is just what you wish it to be.

Synchronicity, Gypsy Music, & The Land of Fabulous Shoes...

Whew! I've been a busy little wanderer. Opportunities to do what I love keep coming my way. Sometimes there's money, sometimes not. At the latter times I'm reminded of a friend's sage words, "There's a time to sow and another to reap." When we feel as if all we've done is sow, we can be very impatient for the harvest time. As my adventure continues here in Europe I keep my heart in the right place, remember my mission, and keep on singing. Like the Fool in the Tarot deck, I jumped off the cliff with the support of the Universe into the unknown in river of life. Believing isn't always easy, but believe I must and the surprises keep on coming. My friend Aman Bloom calls it synchronicity: letting go of the limits of reason, going with the flow, and noticing how little decisions lead to bigger, more significant happenings. Everything is connected!

Potzi & Moundine played with me at the Mini Bar

My Paris debut was bizarre, but a blast, too! Firstly, I relearned a lesson I thought I had gotten long ago: don't pin all the hopes in one direction; make choices that allow for flow and freedom. Usually, situations that create stress from the onset will produce stressful outcomes. After procuring a guitarist from myspace, exchanging emails, phone conversations, and an attempt at a rehearsal which left me nervous about putting on a show for several hours, a last minute decision saved the day. Potzi and Moundine play gypsy jazz at the Mini Bar twice a month. The week prior to my own gig they had played the venue and asked me to join them for a couple of tunes. Thankfully they were available to accompany me again. Our styles are vastly different, but we managed to find commonalities. Funny, but small incidences keep me aware of how important the music is to me. At the end of the evening Potzi invited me to sing with them at some of their other shows. I would be a guest, but the exposure to other audiences in Paris is just what I need.

The next evening I boarded the train for my first trip to Italy. I've been blessed to move about quite often in this part of the world, usually by bus because it's less expensive on short notice, so it was a real treat to finally check out the European train. I could write a whole other tale about that trip, but I'd rather focus on Bologna and the wonderful afternoon I spent singing with kick-ass musicians at an outdoor festival. Christian (www.dirtysoul.net) & Michele (www.micheledonivento.com) were amazingly talented, as well as generous with their stage. (You can check them out on myspace too.) They rarely play in Bologna and said that it was just by chance they were there. I just happened to be walking along when I heard the music and detoured to investigate. My Italian journey was a spontaneous gift from a friend who was otherwise engaged that afternoon, so I was on my own. Talk about synchronicity!!! We had magical music moments and true soul connections. I can taste future associations. At the very least, I have an invitation to join them at a major music festival in Northern Italy this coming Spring.

Chris singing his butt off with Michele playing a mean Hammond.

Princess of shoes in the shoe capital of the world and not a euro to spare. Hear the violins? I didn't torture myself too much about buying new shoes. I've never worn the same shoes everyday in my LIFE til now and my silver converse are tired. REALLY tired!!! The shoe lover in me wanted to part with some of the money I'd earned soooo badly, but the practical Capricorn that I am kept me in check. There'll be more Italian visits and other opportunities to get some fabulous feet treats when I'm better able to be frivolous. For now, the converse and I will remain true to each other. My buddy, MR, might visit me here in Paris and bring the bags I had to leave behind in Ireland. Then I can tromp around Paris in leopard boot style for the New Year.

Beautiful Frederica who poured me mulled wine and warmed my heart with her kind words.

Due Torri- 2 Towers built as the result of a quarrel in 1100.

I didn't do a big tourista thing in Bologna, but I did wander and get lost many times. One day I trucked out to find the City's most famous attraction: Due Torri. I didn't bother with a map because I could see the towers from my starting point and figured I just follow the skyline straight to them. WRONG!!! I got so lost that day, I actually had to ask for help back to the hotel. Got lost again- the streets here are covered in the old part of the city-looked up and there were the towers. Viola!!!

One constant about Europe: my voice is loved here in a way that I experienced in LA and DC and it continues to amaze me. People are visibly touched when I sing. Sometimes there are tears or I'm told about their goosebumps. Then there's the "congratulations" which I don't have a direct translation for the meaning of yet. So why was I surprised when my friend Remo took me out for drinks and informed me the crowd was expecting me to sing. Apparently, he had told the owner about me and the anticipation was high. The Chi Chi Bar (www.chichibo.it) is a chic, but down to earth place with an out of tune upright piano in the corner. One guy was there who said he could play Chicago Blues- Stormy Monday-which I never sing, but have heard enough times to put a tone to it. So off I went. My goodness!!! Just say yes! The experiences can't be repeated.

Father & Son, Chi Chi Bar proprietors, working side by side.

The Piano...

California Girl in Italy...

It's hard to believe Christmas is right around the corner and my gypsy year time line is quickly approaching its end. Remember I began this journey in February. I have no idea what will present itself in the next couple of months, but I'm open to the possibility that I may stay in Europe. I love it here!!! Plus, I don't have a plane ticket to anywhere yet, so I'm completely free to have my next destination unfold. Floating or landing?!!!

As always, thanks for your love, support, friendship, and non-judgement. Wishing you the happiest of holidays!!! I hope to post again before the New Year.
Joyeux Noel!!!

Wheels, Smoke, and Shifting Tides...

My first view of Notre Dame

I'm in Paris where everyone's wheels are spinning or their feet are marchin' at the moment: there's a huge public transportation strike. It hasn't really bothered me. I've walked at least 8 miles per day since I arrived here 'cause the buses/trains aren't cheap, plus I get a better understanding of the city.

I took the bus from Madrid to Paris. It was an overnight affair. The coaches are quite clean here, not like my third world ghetto experience when I rode the dog from Dallas to Austin in July. The movie that played was in Spanish, so I couldn't catch all the language, but I could follow the story closely enough to be moved. It was about life, love, and risk. Talk about a tear jerker for me as we inched along dark roads and I realized I was about to see another dream come true. I have always wanted to live in Paris. I studied French in school-almost majored in it in college. Thinking about how long its taken me to get here brought down the waterworks. Luckily, it was the middle of the night and most of the passengers were asleep.

We left Spain on Thursday night and arrived in Paris Friday afternoon. Luck was with me, so I had both seats for just me! YIPPEE!!!! Never having been to France before, and also choosing it last minute over returning to Barcelona I had made no arrangements. By now I think I can navigate just about anywhere. Well... I didn't even have a list of hostels! First thing, get to the center. Done. Next look for hostels. Not so easy, Paris is a huge weave of streets and trains and bustling humans. Imagine NYC, but you don't speak English very well. I was relying on all those French lessons to come beck in a hurry, but found I kept wanting to speak my crappy Spanish. So funny! Finally I head to a tourist office for a list of hostels around 5pm. This was after I dragged my stuff up & down Metro stations without escalators. Man o man! I can't begin to describe the pain in my arms once I finally relinquished those bags at about 10pm that Friday night.

Ok... don't freak out, but I found just one place with a bed for €28 at around 7:30. It was nice, but for an equivalent of nearly $40 a bit spendy for me. The clerk spoke a bit of English, phoned another place for me, and sent me on my way with best wishes. I'm sure by this point I was lookin' like a real whoozit! Back to the Metro, bags and all. However, now I had gathered a ton of info about the goings on in Paris and started to get a crazy notion: maybe I'd just head to a jam session I'd read about, skip the hostel, stay out all night, and start again tomorrow. In the end that's exactly what I did. The last place I checked out for lodging was nasty! I may be on a budget, but I'm still Princess! I dragged myself & my belongings to the club, parked the shit in a corner, and signed up to sing! So there's my crazy Paris beginning. Perhaps I'm growing bolder after all???

Check out the fantastic details!

The day I walked to Notre Dame, I really needed prayer and I said one. Cathedrals are, for the most part, a cheap tourist activity. The older ones are usually open and free, unless you want to light candles. I know very little about Catholicism, but being a church girl I know I find a sense of peace in the hallowed halls of worship places. I don't want to get into a long story. Just take my word when I say I needed to be there this day.

Later, I headed to one of my favorite drinking holes, the Mini Bar. Named such because of size: it's pretty small and smoky. Everyone smokes, so I intone Dianne Keaton's sentiment from Something's Gotta Give, "second hand smoke'll kill you anyway..." The owner, Lyliane, lets everyone know I'm a fantastic jazz singer-her label- from America. Then as the night rolls on, the calls for proof begin to circulate the room. Obligingly, I break into song a capella and so my reputation is being built: one tune at a time. I must admit loving the response of the listeners. Everyone wants to help me find places to sing. I will do a show at the Mini Bar in 2 weeks. Thank heavens!!!

Lyliane, the bubble woman...

The other thing about Paris... there seems to be no concern of time. Often the party doesn't even begin til after midnight. There might be a lull as people bundle up to go elsewhere, then BAM! New crowd, new energy, more songs, and even more champagne. Champagne flows, smoke billows, and my head finally hits the pillow around 8am. Geez!! When France becomes non-smoking in January Lyliane's place will not give over: she'll just activate private club status. At 61 she shows no signs of slowing down.

I have had to change direction. This week I'm headed for the Parisian suburbs for a wee break and to rehearse with a guitarist I met. Rodrigo and his wife, Pascal perform all types of Latin music. It'll be good for me to hang elsewhere for a bit. Paris has been hell on my feet and lungs. Also I have to brainstorm with like-minded individuals about how to get more work.

Little white lights dot the Eiffel Tower each night!

Whenever I take my evening walk, I am reminded of the glitz and glamour of Paris. Everything really sparkles at night. The Eiffel Tower looks like a diamond studded jewel in the dark sky and although I am revisiting bohemian life, I will wear my real baubles again!

Madrid... Where's the Ocean???

Barcelona dreaming came to an abrupt end. The weather turned cold, the cool crowd left their holiday revelry to return home, and I was left with a decision: to remain or go. There had been so many wonderful people who stayed at The Dream when I resided there, it just didn't feel the same when one by one they departed. One of our last nights together we all hung out in the common area laughing, drinking, and being silly. I sang for some dancers from Budapest and they danced for me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE18OlRPGV8 Love it when artists share with each other!

Things began innocently...

Then, as we know... the controls are loosened!

Most wanted the travel mood to last forever. Since I'm not on holiday, it was a kind of break to be in their energy, and noticeably time for me to return to my mission. I had been waiting for word from a producer friend in the States about a singing tour of Spain. Alas the little violin was stroked when we heard there was no funding available. Literally the tide turned overnight. I had dinner with 2 gentlemen I met thru my couch surfing network. We melded on many deep levels and they both encouraged me to continue conquering my fears. I woke up the next morning with renewed determination, packed my bags to return to the center of Barcelona, but purchased a ticket to Madrid instead.

My courage corner around the Barcelona Cathedral.

Rui, the guitarist who sang & played with me all night to a small, but adoring, group of fans.

I am blessed to have met and performed with Rui around the Cathedral. When we parted at 6am one Saturday morning he gave me his email, but the disconnect came and I couldn't find him again. Miraculously as I circled the public market exactly one week later, we bumped into each other and planned a last rendezvous. Last 'cause I had already purchased my Madrid ticket a few hours earlier. Funny, but the final meeting wasn't meant to be. Thank you for the beautiful music at the Cathedral. I returned and sang alone in the alcove just hours before boarding my bus. Guess I needed to go it solo one last time.

Center City Madrid

As usual, I roamed the city to get the feel of it.

Madrid is beautiful, but I couldn't get a sense of my place there. I always miss being near the ocean for one. The other thing was the Big City Mean came crashing down. If there's just one thing I've noticed during my travels it's this: people in big cities are stressed to the max and unhappy. Now that's a generalization to be sure, but for the most part fairly accurate. I met kind folks there too. BUT... watching a car break-in midday while no one else cared kinda soured my taste for the place. I even stared the guy down and took photos and still he persisted!

Gotcha! Nobody to help...

The best part of being in Madrid was Nicole. She's a friend from Seattle who's studying Flamenco there. It was wonderful to reconnect with her, meet her friends, and catch up on all the happenings. She inspired my expat dreams! Keep on dancin' beautiful lady!!!

Christy, Laura, & Nicole my last evening in Madrid.

Its been difficult to decide where I belong at times. Seems like many of my moves of late have been last minute guttural ones. At one point I thought to return to Barcelona; I had a new place to stay with a friend of a friend, some musical pals to seek out, and a city I felt I knew. Then the 9th hour found me purchasing a bus ticket to Paris. After all, it was the place I intended to check out before Barcelona was even a blip on my radar. So... here I am in gay Paris!!! Don't quite know what's here for me, but she was calling, "Katt! Katt"!

I'll tell about my first day off the bus and my crazy hike through the city, bags and all, the next episode. Keep sending me love and good vibes. I can feel it & your faith in me helps me continue to put one foot in front of the other even when I feel lost.

Love You!!!

A Fall day in Paris...