Monday, November 19, 2007

Wheels, Smoke, and Shifting Tides...

My first view of Notre Dame

I'm in Paris where everyone's wheels are spinning or their feet are marchin' at the moment: there's a huge public transportation strike. It hasn't really bothered me. I've walked at least 8 miles per day since I arrived here 'cause the buses/trains aren't cheap, plus I get a better understanding of the city.

I took the bus from Madrid to Paris. It was an overnight affair. The coaches are quite clean here, not like my third world ghetto experience when I rode the dog from Dallas to Austin in July. The movie that played was in Spanish, so I couldn't catch all the language, but I could follow the story closely enough to be moved. It was about life, love, and risk. Talk about a tear jerker for me as we inched along dark roads and I realized I was about to see another dream come true. I have always wanted to live in Paris. I studied French in school-almost majored in it in college. Thinking about how long its taken me to get here brought down the waterworks. Luckily, it was the middle of the night and most of the passengers were asleep.

We left Spain on Thursday night and arrived in Paris Friday afternoon. Luck was with me, so I had both seats for just me! YIPPEE!!!! Never having been to France before, and also choosing it last minute over returning to Barcelona I had made no arrangements. By now I think I can navigate just about anywhere. Well... I didn't even have a list of hostels! First thing, get to the center. Done. Next look for hostels. Not so easy, Paris is a huge weave of streets and trains and bustling humans. Imagine NYC, but you don't speak English very well. I was relying on all those French lessons to come beck in a hurry, but found I kept wanting to speak my crappy Spanish. So funny! Finally I head to a tourist office for a list of hostels around 5pm. This was after I dragged my stuff up & down Metro stations without escalators. Man o man! I can't begin to describe the pain in my arms once I finally relinquished those bags at about 10pm that Friday night.

Ok... don't freak out, but I found just one place with a bed for €28 at around 7:30. It was nice, but for an equivalent of nearly $40 a bit spendy for me. The clerk spoke a bit of English, phoned another place for me, and sent me on my way with best wishes. I'm sure by this point I was lookin' like a real whoozit! Back to the Metro, bags and all. However, now I had gathered a ton of info about the goings on in Paris and started to get a crazy notion: maybe I'd just head to a jam session I'd read about, skip the hostel, stay out all night, and start again tomorrow. In the end that's exactly what I did. The last place I checked out for lodging was nasty! I may be on a budget, but I'm still Princess! I dragged myself & my belongings to the club, parked the shit in a corner, and signed up to sing! So there's my crazy Paris beginning. Perhaps I'm growing bolder after all???

Check out the fantastic details!

The day I walked to Notre Dame, I really needed prayer and I said one. Cathedrals are, for the most part, a cheap tourist activity. The older ones are usually open and free, unless you want to light candles. I know very little about Catholicism, but being a church girl I know I find a sense of peace in the hallowed halls of worship places. I don't want to get into a long story. Just take my word when I say I needed to be there this day.

Later, I headed to one of my favorite drinking holes, the Mini Bar. Named such because of size: it's pretty small and smoky. Everyone smokes, so I intone Dianne Keaton's sentiment from Something's Gotta Give, "second hand smoke'll kill you anyway..." The owner, Lyliane, lets everyone know I'm a fantastic jazz singer-her label- from America. Then as the night rolls on, the calls for proof begin to circulate the room. Obligingly, I break into song a capella and so my reputation is being built: one tune at a time. I must admit loving the response of the listeners. Everyone wants to help me find places to sing. I will do a show at the Mini Bar in 2 weeks. Thank heavens!!!



Lyliane, the bubble woman...

The other thing about Paris... there seems to be no concern of time. Often the party doesn't even begin til after midnight. There might be a lull as people bundle up to go elsewhere, then BAM! New crowd, new energy, more songs, and even more champagne. Champagne flows, smoke billows, and my head finally hits the pillow around 8am. Geez!! When France becomes non-smoking in January Lyliane's place will not give over: she'll just activate private club status. At 61 she shows no signs of slowing down.

I have had to change direction. This week I'm headed for the Parisian suburbs for a wee break and to rehearse with a guitarist I met. Rodrigo and his wife, Pascal perform all types of Latin music. It'll be good for me to hang elsewhere for a bit. Paris has been hell on my feet and lungs. Also I have to brainstorm with like-minded individuals about how to get more work.



Little white lights dot the Eiffel Tower each night!

Whenever I take my evening walk, I am reminded of the glitz and glamour of Paris. Everything really sparkles at night. The Eiffel Tower looks like a diamond studded jewel in the dark sky and although I am revisiting bohemian life, I will wear my real baubles again!

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Madrid... Where's the Ocean???

Barcelona dreaming came to an abrupt end. The weather turned cold, the cool crowd left their holiday revelry to return home, and I was left with a decision: to remain or go. There had been so many wonderful people who stayed at The Dream when I resided there, it just didn't feel the same when one by one they departed. One of our last nights together we all hung out in the common area laughing, drinking, and being silly. I sang for some dancers from Budapest and they danced for me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE18OlRPGV8 Love it when artists share with each other!

Things began innocently...
Then, as we know... the controls are loosened!

Most wanted the travel mood to last forever. Since I'm not on holiday, it was a kind of break to be in their energy, and noticeably time for me to return to my mission. I had been waiting for word from a producer friend in the States about a singing tour of Spain. Alas the little violin was stroked when we heard there was no funding available. Literally the tide turned overnight. I had dinner with 2 gentlemen I met thru my couch surfing network. We melded on many deep levels and they both encouraged me to continue conquering my fears. I woke up the next morning with renewed determination, packed my bags to return to the center of Barcelona, but purchased a ticket to Madrid instead.

My courage corner around the Barcelona Cathedral.
Rui, the guitarist who sang & played with me all night to a small, but adoring, group of fans.
I am blessed to have met and performed with Rui around the Cathedral. When we parted at 6am one Saturday morning he gave me his email, but the disconnect came and I couldn't find him again. Miraculously as I circled the public market exactly one week later, we bumped into each other and planned a last rendezvous. Last 'cause I had already purchased my Madrid ticket a few hours earlier. Funny, but the final meeting wasn't meant to be. Thank you for the beautiful music at the Cathedral. I returned and sang alone in the alcove just hours before boarding my bus. Guess I needed to go it solo one last time.
Center City Madrid
As usual, I roamed the city to get the feel of it.
Madrid is beautiful, but I couldn't get a sense of my place there. I always miss being near the ocean for one. The other thing was the Big City Mean came crashing down. If there's just one thing I've noticed during my travels it's this: people in big cities are stressed to the max and unhappy. Now that's a generalization to be sure, but for the most part fairly accurate. I met kind folks there too. BUT... watching a car break-in midday while no one else cared kinda soured my taste for the place. I even stared the guy down and took photos and still he persisted!
Gotcha! Nobody to help...
The best part of being in Madrid was Nicole. She's a friend from Seattle who's studying Flamenco there. It was wonderful to reconnect with her, meet her friends, and catch up on all the happenings. She inspired my expat dreams! Keep on dancin' beautiful lady!!!
Christy, Laura, & Nicole my last evening in Madrid.
Its been difficult to decide where I belong at times. Seems like many of my moves of late have been last minute guttural ones. At one point I thought to return to Barcelona; I had a new place to stay with a friend of a friend, some musical pals to seek out, and a city I felt I knew. Then the 9th hour found me purchasing a bus ticket to Paris. After all, it was the place I intended to check out before Barcelona was even a blip on my radar. So... here I am in gay Paris!!! Don't quite know what's here for me, but she was calling, "Katt! Katt"!
I'll tell about my first day off the bus and my crazy hike through the city, bags and all, the next episode. Keep sending me love and good vibes. I can feel it & your faith in me helps me continue to put one foot in front of the other even when I feel lost.
Love You!!!
A Fall day in Paris...